Check back often for ideas and suggestions regarding the Hyper Chassis Micro Sprint, provided for you, the Hyper Chassis Owner, direct from the Hyper Factory. These notes come from many sources, including our assemblers, the Hyper Racing R&D Team, and from the chassis designer himself, Mike Dicely. We even answer some of the most frequently asked questions from the very popular "Ask The Experts" message board.

Assembly Manual, Setup Manual, and Setup Sheets
Before you start, Use our assembly Manual Setup Manual and setup sheets to insure that your baseline chassis setup is correct.

Get all the information and manuals

A couple consideration when determining if you want to use a brake floater. 
  • The brake floater is a factor in determining how far back you can get the seat. So if you are a tall driver who needs the seat back as far as possible, the brake floater may not be desirable.
  • In the axle forward position, the brake floater will get into the seat unless you have it front pretty far, so you have to be kinda short for this to work.
  • Chassis built before 2018, you can not run the axle forward position with a brake floater because the rotor will hit the frame.
  • The advantage of running the brake floater is that you can position the bearing carrier out closer to the wheel. This increases the wheel rate (effective spring rate) for greater stability, consistency, and predictability of the chassis especially on a cushion or a rough track. On a smooth slick track, this advantage would be very minimal, almost non-existent. In fact this whole idea is still in the R&D phase of how important it is. We are headed into 2020 doing testing with different length paddles on the Jacob's ladder to get the bearing carrier even out further. How much of an advantage this is will help clarify this concept.
  • Having the brake on the right works really well, and does not keep you from getting the right rear tire spacing where it needs to be. Hyper chassis do not need to have the RR spaced way in to get it to tighten up on a slick track. 
X7 Axle forward position
The rear axle forward position that you can run on the X7 Chassis will give the car more forward drive but also it will loosing the car a little on entry. Heavy drivers, those that weight more than about 190 pounds should not run the axle forward, the car will get too tight and inconsistent. Lightweight drivers, those under 160, should definitely try the axle forward as they generally suffer from inadequate rear weight bias.

Achieving Enough Counter Steer on the X6
With the new coil over front end on the X6 chassis, make sure you have enough counter steer. A minimum of 40 degrees is required and 45 is preferred for wingless. If the left front tire hits the coil spring before enough counter-steer is reached, call the shop for guidance.

Avoiding Jacob's Ladder Bind on the X6-X7
For owners of  our new X6 Jacob's ladder wishbone chassis, it is very important that the rear axle be positioned at the correct location to avoid Jacob's ladder bind. With the rear axle on 2-3/4" blocks, the Jacob's ladder should be in the middle of its free play. On a recently assembled chassis, the wishbone was made 23-3/8" (center to center) long. Square the axle by adjusting the length of the left side wish bone. The right side wish bone may be cut shorter in order to achieve this condition. Cut up to .125" (1/8") off each end. Do not cut so much that you weaken the weld holding in the rod end inserts.

Jacob's Ladder Mounting Holes
For the new multipoint Jacob's ladder use, start with the Jacob’s ladder mounted in the left side frame mount hole. Then on the Jacob’s ladder paddle holes it depends on the conditions/driver weight. With a heavy driver (over 210 pounds) or on a really wet and/or rough track I would probably start in the #1 hole (both top and bottom). For a normal track to a slick track use hole #3 both top and bottom. Or for a middle of the road choice use hole #4. Remember that on holes 4 and 2 you need to use the 5-3/8” center to center straps and on the 1,3, and 5 positions you use the 5” straps. They are designed this way so you can change hole positions without the rear axle moving side to side at all so changes can be made quickly. Use the #5 hole for wingless on a slick track.

Chain Tension Notes

  • You can adjust the rear panhard bar while you race, while it does move the sprocket side to side a little bit, it does not move it enough to cause issues. We do not run chain adjusters on our cars, so you do not need one of those. You will just need the chain guide that mounts to the left rear bearing carrier. It needs to be adjusted up against the rear sprocket. When you change sprockets the chain guide block needs to be moved.
  • To properly set chain tension, the car needs to be set up (rear axle square, blocked, and turns set) and on the ground race ready. First align the rear sprocket with the front sprocket with a straight edge on the rear sprocket. You may need to adjust the panhard bar to align, or if far off, move the sprocket carrier on the rear axle by swapping spacers. Make sure the chain guide is centered on the chain. Do this by changing the length of the spacers that hold the chain block out from the bearing carrier plate.
  • Make sure the Chain Guide Block is slid up against (within a 1/16") the sprocket. If it is not, the chain will skip. If you change sprockets, the guide block needs to be reset.
  • Once the sprockets are aligned then you can put on the chain and adjust the tension. Do this by sliding the engine front until there is about 1" of free play in the chain. Once the free play is set, lock the engine down by tightening the three engine bolts. Then crank an extra turn into the engine jacker bolt. This pre-loads the engine in the front position so the force of the chain under load does not pull the engine back and loosen the chain while you race.


Shocks and Shock Combinations
New shocks and shock combinations are always being developed by Mike Dicely and the team at Advanced Racing Suspensions (ARS). Some of these shocks are exclusive to Hyper Racing. There are always gains to be made with shocks. The biggest and most valuable change is the left front shock. The standard shock left front shock now delivered on all of our 600's is a 326 4/2. This is a pretty big tie down. This shock delivers a much more drivable car, one that hooks up better on slick, and is more drivable on tack. For wingless, we generally run a straight 2.

Another change that can really help is the new B327 4.5/4.5-2 WXS B/S right rear shock. It uses a different technology than all the other ARS shocks. It increases the .5 and 1 inches/second dampening rates. This yields more grip in the rear.If you do not have a right rear shock that has the WXS designation, the W delivers a new base valve design that really stiffens up the compression at high velocities, like when the car hits a bump or curb. It really helps the car in wet and on the cushion.

Rear Panhard Mounting for More Consistent Handling
Mounting the rear panhard bar in the center of the left rear bearing carrier on the 04-162 clevis  yields a more consistent car that hooks up better. In the past, roll center location from left to right ahs not been considered, just the vertical position. With the lower mount, and the panhard bar on a clevis, the roll center moves to the right about 1 inch and down about 1". Moving the roll center to the right keeps the car from "rolling over center" or getting balled up tight on the right rear, yet still keeps the car hooked up with the roll center low. To make this change use the clevis and a shorter 03-170 17" rear panhard bar. The rear panhard bar length may be slightly different depending on the chassis set up.

Check, Check and Recheck!
Many times, issues and problems are entirely preventable! Download our set up sheets, set up manual, and assembly manual. Here are some common issues that can cause major headaches if ignored:

  • RF wheel offset: should generally be 3/4" to the right, RF & LF wheel should be 4" outer half with 3" inner half
  • Make sure your shocks are good! Spin the shaft to check for straightness. Fully extend the shock, then push in slowly at first to check for air bubbles. Get shocks dynoed to make sure they are what they are supposed to be. Read the article entitled Shocks: A Mystery No More for an in-depth look at shocks.
  • Check your rear shackles, LR should be 4" center to center (read article below) RR should be 3-1/4". Shackle length sets the arm angle.
  • Check for binds in rod ends, rods, bearings, etc.
  • Read and understand the setup sheets, any questions, please contact us and ask.
  • Grind your tires, make sure you have good edges, the friction your tire generates means everything.
  • If your chain is skipping, keep the nylon block up against the sprocket. Anything more than a 1/16" may cause your chain to skip.
  • If going to softer bars in the rear, add turns to keep your ride height  where it was.

Shock Potentiometers
As many of you have seen, Mike Dicely's #44 will occasionally R&D using a full set of shock potentiometers. These data collecting devices allow us to evaluate exactly what the car is doing anywhere on the track. From this data, we have developed a new front shock package that offers an advantage on all size tracks, especially on entry and into the first half of the turn. If you are running an older shock package, it may be worth it to consult us to find out if re-valving your current ARS Monotube shocks might help your performance. You can view the shocks on the online store here. Contact Austin Quick about revalving, shock dyno testing and general shock needs.

Rear Shackle Lengths

On the X4-X6 Hypers that are using the original bearing carrier plates (do not have three holes for shackle, just one hole) Hyper 600cc dirt chassis. Make sure your rear shackle lengths are correct. They should be 4" (center to center) on the left side, and 3-1/4" on the right side. If these are set incorrectly, the arm angles will also be incorrect. The length of the left side shackle will affect the length of the bump rubber. Part number 03-020 will make it possible to achieve a 4" shackle. It uses one right hand and one left hand 7/16" rod end. You will need to cut 1/4" off the ends of each of the rod ends to make this length. X7 Bearing carriers will use longer shackles, please see the X4-X7 Setup Sheet.

Adjustable Seat Bar
If you have an adjustable seat bar, make sure you have #10 bolts or some kind of pin in the ends of the seat bar. Otherwise there is a risk of the bar sliding out the side in an accident.

Steering Bolts
Make sure you check your bolts in the universal joints, they tend to work loose. The universals come from the factory with set screws in them, take out these set screws and use hex head bolts (1/4-20 x 1/2" with a jam nut). If using power steering, loctite the set screws in the upper steering shaft and check them regularly.


40 Below or Champion Cold Blue
If you are having problems running hot: Many customers have great success with  40 below by Pro Blend and Cold Blue by Champion oils. It really works. Mix 1 can into your distilled water. DO NOT use with coolant.

Seat Belts

Please check your seat belts every couple of races for seat belt fraying. We have seen several cars come into the shop where the seat belts started fraying where the lower rear sheet-metal contacts the belt webbing.

Front Spring Rate
Be careful on rough tracks that you don't make the front end too stiff. When this happens, the front end will loose compliance (loose touch) with the track and cause the car to be unpredictable and push for what seams like no reason. A stiff front end is good on a smooth slick track, but be careful.

Making Changes
One thing I noticed at the tracks the last few weeks is racers have a tendency to not make big enough changes on their cars as the night goes on and the track changes. Adding 2 turns, for coil over or 1/2 to 1 turn for torsion to the let rear to make a change will not make a change that you will notice. Don't go to the track thinking you are not going to change much. It is a half a guessing game; I have been racing micro sprints for 35 years and still have to guess at exactly what setup to put on. I don't always get it right, but when I miss, I learn, remember, and try not to let it happen again.

I really do not like reverse spring rate or reverse split on a wishbone car in the rear, it just makes the car do weird unpredictable things. On the Z-link car it can work at times.

If you are using a weight jacker, use it on the left rear. It is most effective there. Use the block height recommended in the setup and "0" the spring with the jacker one turn from being fully extended. Then if the setup calls for -4 turns from the left rear, take 4 turns out (counterclockwise) of the weight jacker. It is a coincidence that one turn on the jacker is the same as one turn on the coil kit.